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The
Russell Turnpike, through what is known as the Scotland district, was
part of the Military Road, which was begun in 1810 for the purpose of
joining Rome with the St. Lawrence River, to facilitate movement of
troop and supplies for the war with the English over control of the
river and the northern expanses of New York State.
The
building of the road provided the opportunity for settlement and the
first settlers of Edwards chose to locate in the portions of the town
known as Pleasant Valley and the Brodie District, leaving the
northwestern portion of the township mostly unsettled.
From
1817 to 1819 the first of the Scottish settlers from the Edinburgh
area arrived under the patronage of Joseph Pitcairn.
The settlers were provided ship passage in exchange for
working, on the average, of three years, on Pitcairn’s land, after
which they could purchase their own land from Pitcairn.
They were also given, as part of the agreement, provisions and
wages for the indenture years.
Many
of the Scottish emigrants chose land in the Elm Creek Valley because
the fertile lowlands were bordered by steep and rocky ridges,
reminding them of their homes in Scotland.
Of all the groups of emigrants, the Scotch, and the Irish who
followed them, are the ones who have remained to this day, as nearly
every Edwards family can claim kinship with one or another family name
from that time.
It
is likely that of all the various sections of Edwards, the one least
changed from the time of settlement is Scotland District.
The farms are larger, but it is, and always has been, a farming
community. Sheep were
raised. Each farm had a small dairy, other barnyard animals and
poultry, and crops were grown to feed man and beast, with any excess
used for trade. There are
fewer sheep grazing hills now but otherwise much is the same, except
that for many families an outside income is needed.
Beginning
at the Russell town line, the earliest map shows a farm belonging to a
man named Collister, not necessarily the first owner, as the date of
the map is 1858. You
would know it as the farm of Arland “Sonny” Bullock.
An earlier map, 1853, from the History of St. Lawrence and
Franklin Counties, by Hough, does not show the present road to Hermon.
At that time Hermon was reached by traveling on what is now the
Spruce Road, formerly the Watson Road, and judging from modern times,
must have been frequently under water as the road is only slightly
higher than Elm Creek.
A large cheese factory was located near the
intersection of the more recent Hermon Road (County Rte 21).
It was variously named the Bellville Cheese Factory,
Scheffner’s, and lastly, Chet Neil’s.
Several years ago it was burned by the fire department after
having been abandoned for many years.
The last family to live there was that of George Watson. From 1926 until about 1960 there was a small country store
situated on the corner of Rte. 21, which was built by John Dane, later
owned and operated by Roy Hall, and later still, by Clint Burch.
The store was permanently closed, but the building remains as
the residence of Patrick and Dawn Mullaney.
Traveling toward Edwards from the Russell town line
there are broad meadows on each side of the road. Tom Grant’s mother, Hazel Eggelston Grant, told Dalton
Fuller, when he was a young boy, that she remembered when the road had
huge maple trees on both sides, so thick that it was always dark
there. Although there are
many maples left and a huge sugarbush on the Bullock farm, the maple
forest was long ago cleared for meadow land.
A
bit farther on the Turnpike there is a road to the right, the Spruce
Road, which was the original road to Hermon.
There are at least two stories concerning houses that were
built there. One was about
the farm called The Spruces, owned by the Robinson family.
Marion Corey’s written memories tell of people going to
gatherings at The Spruces because they made such good spruce beer.
Apparently everyone had a good time, and the family had a lot
of visitors. A second
story concerns a ghost. There
was a woman who disappeared from her home, never to be seen again.
Her husband said she ran away, but some people thought he had
killed her and disposed of her body.
Sometime later a man bought The Spruces house and barn that
were far off the road, in a field about a half mile from the vanished
woman’s house. He claimed to have seen a strange apparition near a rail
fence and when he later heard the story of the missing woman, he was
sure he had seen a ghost. As
soon as winter came and the ground froze, he had the house and barn
moved a considerable distance from the haunted site, to avoid ever
having to see the dead woman again, - so the story goes.
The house is now very near the road, so perhaps he only
tired of the long driveway. This
ghost story, related by Leland Bullock, is believed to have happened
in the late 1940’s or early 1950’s.
Near the town line, on the Spruce Road, is a
road that leads to the site of the Watson homestead, overlooking Elm
Creek Valley. It was a
log house with a frame addition that survived until the early 1950’s
when it fell down of its own accord.
The frame addition was torn down by Leone Watson and used in
his barn on his own farm. The
property was sold out of the family about August in 1996, to George
and Bonnie Murphy Clapp, and the 765KV line runs along the ridge
nearby. There are traces
of the stone foundations of the buildings still visible.
The Mill Road, now
Given Road, is in the town of Edwards for only about a mile before
reaching the Russell line, but there are some interesting things about
it. It follows the town line from a place called Dewey’s Bend, or
sometimes labeled “Mag’s
Cowbars”, for a short way, then turns again and continues in the
town of Russell, where, at one time, it reached Silver Hill. A
discontinued road goes straight from “Mag’s Cowbars” through the
woods and joins the Gaddis Road, again following the town line.
There are several stoned-up culverts on the abandoned road that
give evidence of engineering beyond that which a farmer would do. Who built them, and why?
During 1976, the
Bicentennial year, it was attempted to locate where the bricks for
George Allan House in the village were made in 1817.
Thanks to the memory of a local man, Glen Poole, it was found
that there had been a small brickyard at Dewey’s Bend on Given Road
in what is now Bullock’s pasture land, where the local bricks were
fired to build the oldest house still standing in the village.
Beyond the place
where the road turns to go toward Silver Hill is a stream called Mill
Creek, a hill called Mill Hill and the site where years ago were
several houses and at least two mills. Perhaps one was a sawmill and possibly one may have been a
button factory. In the
1940’s there were pieces of factory equipment in the stream, house
foundations with trees growing in them, along the roadside as one
traveled up the hill. A
half mile farther along the road were the foundations of a small group
of houses and a place where there had been several charcoal producing
pits. Perhaps this dated
to the time when nearly all the timber in that area was cut, as
charcoal was produced by burning hardwood.
At the time my grandparents, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Fuller, moved
to the area, the buildings were gone, only empty cellars left.
Marie Rocca, Russell’s Historian, has no information on the
Sarahsburg area of the Mill Road.
The meadow where the houses were now is now flooded by beaver
dams. Where Mill Creek crosses the road, the road has flooded twice
in my memory. In the
early 1970’s the old iron bridge was washed downstream by flood
waters. This was replaced by a metal sluice pipe which in turn was
washed away about a month ago (Sep 2005).
Back
to the Russell Turnpike, the school house on the corner appears on the
1856 map so must have been established prior to that time.
There are still Edwards’ residents who attended that school,
which has been in use for many years as rental housing.
Picture of the Scotland school at left.
Some family names
from the area were Cleland, Cole, Earle, Eastman, Grant, Grieve,
Noble, Robinson, Watson, Webb, Wilson, Whitehead.
At present there are many Bullock farms, with descendants of
the original settlers still in Edwards.
I am one of them. Names I recall from the 1940’s were Barraford, Bullock,
Cleland, Davis, Dewey, Fuller, Hale, Hall, MacGregor, Miller, Neil,
Noble, Patterson, Poole, Watson. I may have forgotten some.
The houses were nearly all the typical rambling “upright and
ell” one and a half story farmhouses, surrounded by many
outbuildings.
The road from the
earliest times was dirt as were all others in this area.
Paving was done in 1926 and that was probably the time when,
instead of winding around hills, rock cuts were blasted out for easier
passage. The dirt road
that had been sufficient for horse and wagon travel required some
refinement for the newly acquired automobiles of the Edwards citizens,
although few could afford them. Within
my memory the road has changed from cement to macadam, the shoulders
have been widened as well as the driving lanes, and trees that
provided shade were cut for safety to motorists. |